A Small Plate Success
Skosh had a lot to live up to as, within a few months of opening, it has found its way to the top of trip advisor and received a number of positive reviews.
Chef Neil Bentinck has honed his skills in some of Yorkshires’ finest restaurants – The Sun Inn, Blue Bicycle, Churchill Hotel and the Michelin starred Pipe and Glass.
We arrived at the restaurant after a few emails back and forth explaining they needed the table back after two hours and asking us (the day before the booking) whether we would consider a set group menu, which we declined.
This meant we arrived with some trepidation, thinking that perhaps we wouldn’t have enough time to enjoy the experience fully or that the food may be slow to arrive.
We needn’t have worried.
The dining experience at Skosh is smooth and coherent. The staff explain that the menu offers small snacks priced from around £3 – £6 and more substantial plates (still small compared to traditional main courses) priced around £12-£14.
We picked a few small and one or two larger ones each and this was more than enough for a substantial but not overly filling meal.
Skosh… meaning ‘a little; a small amount’ from the Japanese term ‘sukoshi’.
The whole experience flowed nicely with the plates arriving from the kitchen in an order that made sense – which isn’t always the case.
The place had an aura effortless style and skill but was unpretentious and relaxed. A stainless steel open kitchen gave an energetic backdrop to a otherwise relaxed setting decorated with pine tables, plush yellow and grey cushions and bespoke ceramic crockery in earthy colours, created by Neil and ceramicist Jess Jos.
The handmade crockery was an especially nice touch complementing the style of the food perfectly. Everything fit on our table easily and we never felt overwhelmed or frustrated.
The drinks menu is simple and unfussy with a small range of ales, cocktails and wine.
The food itself is varied and creative encompassing a mix of styles but definitely influenced by Neil’s late father who had Indian heritage along with his own travels in Asia.
Highlights from the small plates for us included the hen’s egg with leek, potato and black truffle which was packed full of flavour and hidden surprises.
The beetroot, leek and apple with basil ricotta and green tea was also special, tasting really fresh and vibrant.
Both these dishes are testament to the quality of the vegetarian food at Skosh and the menu is well split between meat, fish and vegetables.
The larger plates were a good size for sharing. The stand out one for us was the baked hake with dukkah, cauliflower & miso which was creamy and smooth with some interesting spicing.
For pudding we enjoyed some warm malted milk with spiced rum, damson jam doughnut which I would gladly make my regular nightcap.
This was followed by a 71% chocolate slice with salted lime caramel, coconut and burnt butterscotch. Personally, I would have made this even more chocolatey as I thought the lime and coconut could have handled a darker chocolate flavour. Still, as someone with a sweet tooth I enjoyed having such a good choice of puddings available.
If I was to change one thing about the food at Skosh it would be to push the flavours even more towards some of the Asian influences. I would have loved a bit more spice and chilli in some of the dishes, but then again they were always well balanced with flavours that I think would be surprising but accessible to everyone.
One of the best things about Skosh is the value. We visited Mr P’s Curious Tavern lately and, although we were very impressed with the food, it was easy to become a bit disillusioned as the high prices jarred with the ‘relaxed’ setting and slightly lacking service. At best you’re left feeling like you best not return until a very special occasion, at worst ripped off.
The whole experience at Skosh leaves you feeling like you’ve been welcomed into a talented chef’s world. It’s the sort of place you’ll want to go again and again, although I imagine it’s only a matter of time before it becomes hard to get a table here.
My advice is to hurry 🙂
Check out the Skosh website here.
Skosh – Opening Spring 2016
Very excited about this one!
Due to open this Spring, Skosh restaurant has secured its spot down York’s Micklegate.
The restaurant will be serving small grazing plates of environmentally friendly and sustainable food.
Described as relaxed and contemporary, Skosh is the project of York chef Neil Bentinck who has previously worked with Sophie Mitchell in Knightsbridge, at Blue Bicycle and Michelin starred Pipe and Glass.
We’ll be heading there as soon as we can to let you know what we think 🙂
Before the grand opening, Skosh is taking to the road for a series of ‘taster pop-ups’ to whet the appetite for things to come. Four fantastic venues across North Yorkshire have been chosen to showcase dishes, with menus and tickets available via event website Eventbrite (booking fees apply).
Some have already sold out (much to our disappointment!) but some still have tickets.
Skosh Crafts and Sharers Banquet
Henshaws Arts and Crafts Centre, Knaresborough
Saturday 5th March 7pm
4 course sharing banquet £32
Bean & Bud Coffee Shop, Harrogate
Saturday 12th March 7pm
7 course tasting menu with drinks flight £60
Skosh Pairings 2
Pig and Pastry, York
Saturday 19th March 7.30pm
7 course tasting menu with drinks flight £60
Skosh in the Attic
The Attic at Harlequins, York
Thursday 24th March 7.30pm
9 snacks and small plates £32